Basic setup such as ride height can be done with nothing more than a level
surface and a ruler but some items of equipment make subsequent adjustments
easier. The first of these is a camber gauge.
Set against the bulge of the tyre the small dial at the bottom is turned until
the bubble in the level is between two lines and the camber can be read
directly. Adjustment maybe by shims in the suspension mounts, spherical joints
in the suspension or by bending the axle if it's a beam.
A more complex adjustment and a more complex piece of kit.
First the wheel is turned to 20 degrees lock in one direction and the castor
dial set to zero with the bubble between two lines.
It's often the case that these two adjustments have to be repeated as few suspension setups allow them to be changed independently.
We use a traditional optical instrument for tracking.
This has two frames which are set against the wheels.
The desired toe-in or toe-out is set on a dial .....
In a very few cases castor and camber may need to re-adjusted after tracking and then the tracking adjustment fine tuned.
A final adjustment might be for corner weights, either to allow for the
driver or to add pre-load. The use of four linked scales makes this job
relatively easy although some suspension setups don't really allow for any
adjustment.
